One of the most important structures that we saw on our walk through the city of Brasov was the so-called Black Church (Biserica Neagra) of Brasov. It has been cleaned up and is no longer so very black. It is the most important church of the Saxon community in Romania. It is a Lutheran church that was built by local Transylvanian Saxons. Our guide Vio said the church got its name as a result of a 1689 fire which deposited soot in and around the church and gave it its dark appearance. Some modern interpreters have said the color was actually the product of pollution. And pollution as we all know is ubiquitous, so that is a reasonable interpretation. The church is a working church and is considered the main city landmark of Brasov.
The church was built during the 14th century, before the Reformation. Most scholars believe it was built starting in 1383 and was probably completed by about 1476. Like so many great churches of Europe, it was built on the site of an earlier church (destroyed during Mongol invasions in 1242). Christians are by no means the only religious group that destroyed the churches or places of worship of its rivals. Such destruction was common among most if not all religions, except those who lacked the power to do so.
The interior of the church was very beautiful. It has lovely balconies and stained-glass windows in addition to the huge organ.
The 1689 fire occurred when it was invaded by Hapsburg forces during the Great Turkish war but that theory is now widely refuted. The church was substantially restored in 1937 and again in 2000.
The church contains an impressive organ and Transylvanian rugs as well as 3 bells the largest of which weighs 6.3 tonnes making it the biggest in Romania. It is also the largest Gothic church between Vienna and Istanbul. The large organ has 4,000 pipes and was built in 1839 and is played during weekly concerts.
The church also has gorgeous Turkish carpets, including 119 Anatolian carpets, that were donated between the 15th and 17th centuries by wealthy Transylvania merchants who were grateful they had survived their journeys into “barbaric” lands to the south and east of the Carpathian mountains. And of course, they probably believed the sums would help purchase a pleasant and cool permanent home for their souls rather than one that is much too hot. We were told the collection of carpets is the largest of its kind in Europe. In recent years, the church windows were outfitted with special UV-filtering glass to protect them.
Part of the Mausoleum for the filthy rich
For many years people wanted to be buried inside the church because they felt they would be closest to God there and thus might not be so easily forgotten by God. The richer the person the closer he was allowed to be buried to the Eucharist. Like the rich around the world, from Steinbach to Brasov, the rich here were not averse to trying to buy their way into heaven. Sadly, though despite the donations to the church, some of the corpses of the wealthy decomposed and stank to high heaven. Vio said these were early examples of “the stinking rich”. And it was their fitting final resting place. At least so they thought. Some think they found that final resting place in much hotter environs.