All posts by meanderer007

Waskamatsiwin: Everything Alive is Sacred

 

Waskamatsiwin–Everything that’s alive is sacred. As Eruoma Awashish, an Atikamekw from Opitciwan, another Indigenous group in Eastern Canada, said in the CBC Gem series, “Telling Our Stories”,

 

Waskamatsiwin is a philosophical concept. It could be translated as to live in full consciousness within the harmony of the Circle. For me the word expresses our entire worldview, how we see ourselves in relation to the world. How we interact with the world. We aren’t in the centre of this circle. We are within it.

 

This is very different from the spiritual colonialism of Europeans and Canadians. They don’t claim to be dominant or in the centre. It is enough to be part of the world of nature.

 

Steve McComber, Kanien’kehà:ka from Kahnawake said

 

“spirituality is the application of ritual, song, dance, people, laughing, singing, and being happy for what our Creator gave to us.”

 

Saige Mukash, Eeyou from Whapmagoostui, added

 

“Spirituality would be us communicating with the spirit world. Communication with ceremonies, and also an understanding of where we all fit into the Circle.”

 

Another woman said,

 

“Bears play an essential role in our spirituality. It is also said that they speak the language of men. The bear is our equal. Our brother. Our protector. Many nations also respectfully call them Nimisho, my grandfather. Like all living and non-living beings the bear is a part of our circular world-view.”

It was interesting for me to consider Indigenous spirituality as we drove through eastern Canada

A Treasure Trove of Colour

 

 

We had barely left Cape Forchu when we discovered another splendor. A treasure trove of colour! I almost passed this by. That would have been a sin.

I don’t know who put these things together, but I really believed they did it just for me. I love colour. It energizes me and this really energized me.

I spent almost as much time photographing these various items of seaside paraphernalia as I did photographing the Forchu Lighthouse.

 

I really can’t remember the last time I encountered so much colour. Colour without a apparent purpose, but I felt the French impressionists would have gone crazy here. I sure did.

 

These looked like missiles of colour

 

A colour wheel

 

 

 

Finally a house with a nice trim in a nice colour against a blue sky.

 

The Beacon of Canada: Cape Forchu

 

 

 

Our main goal in our travel in the afternoon was Cape Forchu in  Yarmouth Nova Scotia. OK, it was my main goal. Christiane never expressed such a goal. She is a much more reasonable person than I, at least when it comes to lighthouses.

First, I must set my upcoming comments into the proper perspective. The last time we were in this part of Nova Scotia, about 10 years ago, we made a trip to Cape Forchu I was bad disappointed because the lighthouse there was shrouded by ugly dark, but interesting clouds. Actually, I was more than disappointed. I was devastated. My photos were all duds.

This day started out differently. We had beautiful blue skies sprinkled with little happy white clouds. Excellent!  But, as we started driving towards Yarmouth where that lighthouse is located, darker more miserable clouds started setting in. By the time we got there, there was only a small layer of blue. I was set for another devastation. This could not be. This was monstrous injustice. The universe could not be unfolding that way. But it did. So, I once again photographed as best I could. Which was not very good.

 

Yet I kept to the high ground. I did not mope or go quiet and sullen. I put on a false brave face. And guess what? I was rewarded for my heroic conduct.

I was already packing up my gear when hope rose on the horizon.  Blessed light was appearing. Slim slices of blue arrived. Light. I raced back up the hill and was rewarded by joy. Pure joy. The light brougth joy into my life again. The only thing that could have been better was dramatic skies. I was not that lucky, but I was lucky.

 

Samuel de Champlain, Canada’s premier explorer from France  explored this part of Nova Scotia’s coast and named the area “Cap Forchu”, meaning forked tongue of land. Until today that is what it had become for me.

In 1840, The Cape Forchu lighthouse was built by His Majesty’s government in Nova Scotia before Confederation and it was lit on  January 15, 1840 by lightkeeper, James Charles Fox. It was only the 2nd lighthouse in Nova Scotia with a revolving white flashing light to distinguish it from others. Tragically, just 3 months into his new job, lightkeeper James Fox (age 52) died on March 27 leaving behind his wife Bessie and 8 children. His 24-year-old son Cornelius “John” Thomas Fox was appointed the new lightkeeper.

 

The lighthouse at Cape Forchu has been called the Beacon of Canada. It is truly stunning. I would love to photograph it in a nice sunset. Sadly, we did not stay for sunset because there were other things we wanted to see today, churches!

 

In 1857, a fog bell was mounted in a small wooden tower that had been installed making Cape Forchu a light station and not just a lighthouse. The bell’s mechanical striking system which rang 7 times each minute had to be wound up periodically by the keeper.

 

1873, after 33 years of faithful service John Fox retired at the age 57. During that time, he and his wife Sarah had 4 children during their time on the Cape. Their oldest son James R Fox, age 31 was appointed as lightkeeper in his place. In 1874 James and his young wife Maggie gave birth to a son Harry who died at Cape Forchu when he was merely 4 months old. Life in and around lighthouses was fierce.

 

A 2nd order Fresnel lens (the best available) was installed in 1908 at a cost of $38,000. At the same time a new metal lantern room 12 ft taller was built to house the new lens, which today can be seen in the Yarmouth County Museum. It had a frame with 8 lens faces containing 360 prisms. It gave out a brilliant ¼ second flash 24 times a min.

 

 

On September 17, 1939, the lighthouse was hit by lightning twice around 1:15 am. This was not the first time it was hit.  This time, the wooden floor of the tower, where lamp oil was stored, was set on fire. Lightkeeper Cunningham assisted by several others managed to keep the fire under control until a Yarmouth fire truck arrived to save the day. During its 99-year history this was at least the 5th time the lighthouse or residence was struck by lightning. Lighthouses often attract lighning. Professional jealousy perhaps.

In 1940, a new fog alarm building was built, attached to the front of the lighthouse tower.  That same year a big improvement came—electricity. When electrical service began in October, Herb Cunningham the last of the old and renowned lamp lighters, reported that the first light bulb lasted 5 months. During World War II years all lighthouses and their keepers became an important part of Canada’s Coastal Defense Program watching out for enemy German submarines and unidentified aircraft. The Germans attacked any vessels they could. So did the Canadians.

In 1952 Herb Cunningham retired as lighthouse keeper after 30 years on the job. He estimated that during his employment he had climbed the lighthouse stairs about 47,000 times. In total the Fox family, the Doane’s and Cunningham’s had kept watch at Cape Forchu for 112 years. Not bad.

In 1962 it was time for a new tower because the existing one was 122 years. It was replaced with the stunning 75 ft octagonal concrete tower with its distinctive wind-resistant apple-core shape, that we saw today. It also got a new lens to replace the old Fresnel lens.

1993 the lighthouse was automated and after that there were no more lighthouse keepers at Cape Forchu.  The lighthouse is still there but it does not require resident light keepers. An era was over.

 

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Annapolis Royal Historic Garden: One of the Most Beautiful Gardens in Canada:

 

Annapolis Royal,, Nova Scotia, is a lovely town but we got there so late, because we chatted with the Langlais family too long, so we resolved to return later. We only had time for one stop.

This was the amazing Annapolis Royal Historic Garden.  This is one of my favorite gardens in Canada and we stop here every time we are in the area. I love garden, but hate gardening.  I guess that means I am either very lazy, or morally corrupt, or both.

The flowers, particularly the roses, were lovely, even though it was late September. Life is good, in a garden. As long as you don’t have to work in it.

The beautiful gardens are found on a lovely setting overlooking a tidal river valley.  The gardens proudly showcase hundreds of rose cultivars and thousands of fragrant and beautiful blossoms.  I managed to catch a pollinator leaving a flower in a photograph. I always like to photograph the pollinators, but rarely catch them in flight. This was a rare and unexpected treat.

 

A single rose can be my garden; a single friend, my world” – Leo Buscaglia 

 

I even photographed a fallen leaf on a green grass. I liked how the image showed the recently fallen and not so recently fallen in a mirror image.

A beautiful garden in autumn. Life doesn’t get much better than that.

 

Ralph Waldo Emerson said “The world laughs in Flowers.”  He as a wise man.

On the way home I stopped to photograph some trees starting to show the autumn colours. I love autumn. What’s not to like about it?

 

Albert Camus was another wise man. He said, “Autumn is a second spring when every leaf is a flower.”

 

 

Dilapidation in Clementsport Nova Scotia

 

From Digby where we stayed in a B & B, after a leisurely morning we traveled to Annapolis Royal in the lovely Annapolis Valley. On the way we drove through the quaint village of Clementsport.

 

Clementsport is a small community on the southern shore of the Annapolis Basin which is really part of the Bay of Fundy.  The area was originally the home of the Mi’kmaq  people. Empire Loyalists established a village here after they travelled from Long Island New York during the American Revolution in about 1785. Several homes and churches in the area date to the 18th and 19th centuries. They are was well known for ship building and there was also an iron smelting factory along the river, as well as extensive dockworks, stores and residences that were built along the river on wooden pilings and stilts sort of like the people of Bear River.

When the wooden shipbuilding industry declined the area declined economically and none of the structures that were built along the river are left. There has also been more recent economic decline and as a result many businesses have shut down Clementsport is situated on the Annapolis Basin, along the Moose River. It is located at roughly the half-way point between Annapolis Royal and Digby, along Highway 1.

 

I loved some of the old buildings. Frankly, I love dilapidation. I am not sure what that means about me. Probably, it means I am dilapidated too. I find beauty in the old and decayed. THe Japanese have built a philosophy around this idea. They call it Wabi-Sabi

 

Yet some of the modern homes are also beautiful and very well maintained. I loved the cedar shakes on a particularly beautiful home. Not huge by modern standards, but lovely all the same. I really don’t get the modern taste for massive houses. What is up with that? Quite some time ago I heard the average house size had increased by 40% in Canada and the US while the average number children dropped.  I am sure since then it has increased even more. It seems to me that every year houses get bigger as families get smaller. Odd, where our traditional values have taken us.

I think people should let old houses become a bit dilapidated to bring out their beauty. I know most people will think I’m nuts. And they’re probably right.

High Arctic Sailors in Digby Nova Scotia

 

 

Ocean Hillside B & B Digby Nova Scotia

Today we had one of the strangest experiences ever at a B & B.  We met a young couple from Rimouski, Quebec, where stayed for the night on the way here. They are Samuel and Naomi.  They explained that they were sailors.  What did that mean, we asked?  Does it mean they sail around the world in sail boats? Not at all. They sail on cargo ships mainly in and around Hudson Bay, but also the Great Lakes. They deliver supplies to people in the High Arctic. In fact, a CBC Gem film was made about such people, called High Arctic Crawlers. Each year they spend about 5 months at sea and the rest of the time back home. They work on separate ships by choice to ensure it is not difficult for others having a married couple on a ship.

 

We had a fascinating talk with them.  Life on the sea is incredibly interesting and challenging. They are both well versed in the arcane maritime laws that officers are expected to know. Even though they are much younger than us, we had great discussions on a variety of topics.  We spent hours sitting around the breakfast table talking rather than exploring. We have never done that before. We have always like staying at B & B’s on account of the interesting people to talk to, but this was special. It was a most congenial morning that stretched into lunch. At the end of the trip, someone asked me what was the best part of the trip, and I said without hesitation, meeting this interesting couple.  We hope to see them again.

Monsieur Robert served us crepes Suzette. We dined in style with a French chef. We have landed on our feet in Digby Nova Scotia.

As if this visit was not enough, we had another one the next day.

After that strange experience, the next day was even stranger. We continued our conversation with our new young Quebec friends who like us were here for a few days and were joined by 2 interesting American women. We have a long and lovely chat with all 4 of them. It lasted even longer than the first day. We stayed and talked right through the morning until Monsieur Robert came to let the American women gently know that they had to leave as they had to clean the room before the new guests arrived.

We talked about everything under the sun, but particularly the fascinating laws of the sea. We even got into some politics, which is often difficult with Americans. Of course, these women were New Englanders, not Trumpsters.

We had never talked with anyone that long at a B & B before. And we have stayed at many B & B’s.  The American women wanted to stay longer but the rooms were all booked. That was a pity. For us all.

 

Neo-Liberal Heaven at Bear River with Crabby Granny

 

 

After visiting the lighthouse at Prim Point,  we traveled to the town of Bear River which is a deeply fascinating little community. Christiane and I had learned a little of that history when we watched a CBC television show called Still Standing that we frequently watch about small towns in Canada. By watching that show we have learned a lot about some of the small towns such as St. Laurent Manitoba, where we honeymooned in 1971. That was definitely not its claim to fame.

 

What really fascinated me about Bear River Nova Scotia was the fact that it is built straddling the dividing line between two different municipalities. As a result, the people could not decide which municipality to belong to, so the residents decided, they would not belong to either and in fact would have no local government at all! They decided to govern themselves by consensus, rather than bylaws.  When they need something they chip in to build it.  Co-operative governance. Like a local road or library. No taxes pay for it. Voluntary payments only. All municipal work is done by volunteers.  There are no property taxes either. How is that even possible?  A neo-liberal heaven! Perhaps it works because so many of the residents are artists. It has the highest per capita artist in Canada.

 

When the place was occupied by Mi’kmaq it was called Eelsetkook which means “flowing along high rocks.” In 1612 the French called the area Imbert, after Simon Imbert a French apothecary who accompanied Champlain. Over time, the name was shortened to “bert” in French, or Bear in English.

The climate and soil conditions in the area are suitable for growing grapes so wineries have developed, and of course, Christiane and I had to visit one of them.  We drove up a hill  to the Casanova Winery and Cidery and had a lovely chat with the owner and ended up buying a Riesling wine and a Crabby Granny Cider in honour of Chris—a well-known Crabby Granny.

 

Point Prim Nova Scotia

 

In the afternoon at Digby Nova Scotia  we took a very short drive to Point Prim lighthouse at the tip of a small peninsula facing the Bay of Fundy. In my view the standard place for a photograph, from the trail leading to it, did not offer a good place for photographs. So I walked out to a rock shelf overlooking the beach and in the opposite direction offering the lighthouse. It was a bit of a perilous viewpoint however. At least to a big chicken like me. I was too scared to walk to the edge like some local kids were doing. We met a man here who was running for the municipal election, but sadly, I forgot his name so later could not determine if he had won or not. He seemed like a good man on a family walk in the park.

 

Point Prim is a special place for local. At one time the foghorn was a constant reminder of the lighthouse nearby and helped to attract many of them out to the park. A plaque referred to it as “a wondrous trumpet echoing across the bay.”

 

It is also a great place to see the channel between the Annapolis Basin and the Bay of Fundy. The locals call this the Digby Gut. In Mi’Kmaq it is called Tuitnuk, meaning simply, the outflow. The Bay of Fundy gets its name from a French word fendu meaning “split”.

 

Chris enjoying the sun along the coast

In 1605 Samuel Champlain and Pierre Dugua de Mons ventured through this area which they estimated could hold 200 boats. Later that year he returned to establish the first European settlement north of Florida and called it Port Royal in honour of the King. It is still there but the name has changed to Annapolis Royal.

 

The first lighthouse here was built in 1804 long before Confederation. It only lasted for 2 years before it burned to the ground.  A replacement was built in 1817 by the regional coast guard.

 

This is called Krumholz.  In German that means “crooked wood.”  That is trees created by winds off icy coast that makes it difficult for branches to grow on the windy side of the tree.

 

 

The exposed bedrock on which I was clambering was created 201 million years ago. The volcanic rock was the result of eruptions that occurred when Pangea, the massive continent that was at the time the only continent in the world, started to break up into separate continents. The octagonal (sort of ) shapes of volcanic columns that are now just stumps as a result of thousands of years of erosion.  When we travelled to Ireland in 2009 we saw large columns  of such rocks as part of the Giant’s Causeway, that were protruding out of the ground, because they had somehow escaped the glaciers. Here the ice has pummelled them down to bedrock.

The Digby Gut was a channel  that was formed by thousands of years of erosion mainly from continental glaciers, along a fault line that is now the Bear River. That is where we travelled next.

 

 

Walton Lighthouse

 

 

 

Our next stop in Nova Scotia was the little town of Walton, a place Christiane and I stopped at last time we were in the area.  Acadians lived in this village before they were expelled by the British who feared they might be traitorous because they refused to swear allegiance to the British crown. The Acadians called the place Petite Riviere after a small river in the area. The British changed the name to Walton, after a local large land owner called James Walton.

 

There was a lot of ship building done in the region but it had no lighthouse, despite much begging for one by the locals, until after Confederation, when the new Canadian government went on a spree of lighthouse building to accommodate the shipping industry. After the shipping industry declined in the area it was no longer worthy of the maintenance of a lighthouse, but it has earned a heritage landmark by Nova Scotia.

 

 

When we were there, an “R.V. Adventure Club” was having a photo op. From our perspective there were too many adventurers because their RVs blocked our view until a female RCMP officer arrived. Interestingly, all she wanted was her photo taken in uniform in front of her official car and the lighthouse. What kind of adventures do old RV’ers have? Actually, travelling is always and adventure and your are never sure what the next one will be.

Everybody likes lighthouses and who can blame them?

 

World’s Biggest Tides: Burntcoat Head Nova Scotia

 

 

Burntcoat Head Park. Burntcoat Head Park is on the coast of the Bay of Fundy in Mi’Kmaq territory and the District of Sipekne’katik, the ancestral and unceded territory of the Mi’kmaq people. It is always important to recognize such facts and the park did exactly that.

 

It also claims to be the exact site of the highest tides in the world. The Bay of Fundy of which it is a part claims to have the highest tides and it is because of this area. And it was also home to a lovely islet just a short walk away down to the beach.

The Guinness Book of World Records (1975) declared that Burntcoat had the highest tides in the world: “The greatest tides in the world occur in the Bay of Fundy…. Burntcoat Head in the Minas Basin, Nova Scotia, has the greatest mean spring range with 14.5 metres (47.5 feet) and an extreme range of 16.3 metres (53.5 feet).” That is good enough for me, though I admit there is some controversy about which tides are actually the biggest. The National Geographic made a similar claim in its August 1957 magazine: “The famous tides of the Bay of Fundy move with deceptive quiet. Sheltered from the open sea, they ebb and flood to a recorded range unequal in the rest of the world.”

Twice each day the tides rise and fall in the Bay of Fundy and cause  60 billion tonnes of water to flow in and out of the Bay of Fundy each day!  That is incredible when you stop to think about it. The average tide in the bay is 47.5 ft high and the highest is 53.6 ft.

Like most coastal tides, Burntcoat Head experiences two high tides and two low tides each day. The Bay of Fundy fills and empties with approximately 160 billion tonnes of water twice a day. On average it takes 6 hours and 13 minutes between high and low tide. As soon as the tide has reached its lowest or highest point, it will change directions, and either begin to come to shore or flow back out. The timing of the tides changes by approximately by one hour daily. Spring tides happen twice per month when the Sun, Moon, and Earth are aligned. During this alignment, the tides raise higher than average. Neap tides occur during the first and third quarter moon. During this time the high tide heights are lower than average.

 

There was also a lighthouse here but it was a bit of a dud though it had an interesting history. The first lighthouse was built in 1858, before Confederation on land that later was transformed into an island. The lighthouse had 5 oil lamps with reflectors that the keepers had to clean every day!  The narrow “neck” of land on which it was built connected it to the mainland until that neck was eroded into oblivion.  The power of the sea, unlike the power of men and women, is relentless.  After that the people who worked on the lighthouse had to climb up bank of the beach by means of a ladder.

 

In 1979 a man and his son, George and Sandy Hyrnewich, searching the beach found a fossil of a creature that had never been discovered or identified before. It was the skull of a reptile that was 20 cm long and came from the late Triassic period more than 220 million years ago. That was before there were any dinosaurs on the planet. It is now called, appropriately, Teraterpeton Hyrnewich. The first part of the name means “wonderful creeping thing” in Latin and the second part is of course their name. As erosion in the Bay of Fundy continues, other strange fossils may be found.

 

The Bay of Fundy originated when the world’s continents were all joined as one in what scientists now called the supercontinent Pangaea, which means one earth,  230 million years ago, about the time the wonderful creeping thing was creeping. Pangaea started to break apart. At that time a very large rift valley started to form, where the Bay of Fundy is now found. Braided rivers probably blown through the region and hot dry winds blew sand into dunes that today form the red sandstone that is so visible today in Burntcoat and other places in Nova Scotia.