The Churches of Mahone Bay

 

I like church buildings. I never really liked going to church very much. I guess that tells you too much about me. I don’t know the name of this church I photographed on the way in from Digby Nova Scotia to Mahone Bay.  I just stopped to admire it amid the autumn leaves.

 

The three famous churches are St. James Anglican Church, St. John’s Evangelical Lutheran Church, Trinity United Church.  I have always been puzzled by the appearance though of 4 churches. Can’t you see 4 steeples in my photo. Why does the 4th church get no credit?  It can’t be because it’s a Mennonite Church. Or could it be? I think it might be the Calvary Temple which is not quite on the shoreline. So it does not get included. Churches getting exclusive again?

I really like the area in around Mahone Bay Nova Scotia. It was first settled by Mi’kmaq people since time immemorial. Thousands of years.  The French were the first Europeans to settle here and called the area La Baye de Toutes Iles (The Bay of Many Islands).  The current name derives from the French mahonne, a type of barge After the British took over from the French, in 1754,  they brought in German speakers from Europe to settle the region. At first they brought them to Lunenburg and then Mahone Bay.

This was the first dreary day in a while, but sadly, it was not the last.

I think churches are a little like lighthouses.  Offering a warning? Or better, an illumination?

 

Slavery in Canada

 

During our visit to eastern Canada in 2025, Christiane and I visited the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier at Pier 21. We learned a lot including a fine display of artifacts about slavery in Canada.

Many people think the only way Canada was connected to slavery was through the underground railway where many slaves from America escaped their brutal conditions and came to Canada. Although that happened, the story is more complex than that.

 

I remember a few years ago when I listened to a very interesting story about  slavery in Canada on CBC radio.  By coincidence, when the show was recorded, the CBC crew encountered former Prime Minister Paul Martin in Halifax where they were recording the show and the interviewer asked him a few questions about slavery in Canada, and he proudly mentioned how Canadians had protected slaves as part of the underground railway in his former riding of Windsor.  When questioned, it became obvious, that he was not aware of slavery in Canada. He just remembered the good parts. Canada has certainly not emphasized this dark side of its history.  American conservatives are not the only ones who try to ignore their past except for the glorious aspects of their history. At least Canadians are not, to my knowledge at least, trying to hide those unsavory aspects.

 

First, slavery was practiced in Canada for over 2 centuries. It was abolished by a statute of Britain in 1834. Only after that was the stage set for Canada to become a safe haven for escaping slaves.   Until then, often slavery was just as brutal in Canada as it was in the United States. In fact, there are cases where slaves in Canada escaped from their masters and fled to the United States.

 

40 years earlier Upper Canada (before it was Ontario) abolished the importation of new slaves, but it did not ban slavery. However many northern states abolished slavery before Canada did.

 

Even after slavery was abolished, many survivors of slavery had a very hard time finding jobs and often could only find jobs that had been established during slavery such as nannies to white families.

 

Slavery left a profound legacy throughout the Americas, including Canada. Enslaved black people and their descendants had powerful influences on culture in Canada, as well as sports, science, the Humanities, food, and agriculture and much more. Yet slavery devastated the people and robbed Africa of many of its people. Canada was also home to much anti-black racism that has left a strong residue of disproportionate rates of incarceration of black people as well as income disparities, unequal access to health care, and higher rates of diabetes.

 

Through their unpaid labour, black slaves made enormous contributions to the economy of Canada. As the Museum made clear, “Under the cruel conditions of slavery, enslaved Black people tried as much as possible to keep their families together—an almost impossible feat as family members were regularly sold, bequeathed in wills, and even given away as bridal gifts.”

 

A fact that always astonishes me, is the fact that slave owners were compensated for the loss of their property when slavery was abolished, but no compensation was ever paid to the blacks or their descendants. There is a growing movement of people who are advocating that descendants of enslaved black people be paid reparations as some compensation for those losses..

 

Many black people challenged their enslavements by participating in slave rebellions or escaping. Some even managed to successfully dispute their enslavement in court proceedings.

 

Some of the more moving things we saw in the display at the museum in Halifax, were actual copies of advertisements published in local newspapers for advertisements for the proposed sale of slaves. There were also advertisements seeking assistance for the return of their slaves. Even in Canada.

 

Slaves were sold at auctions in warehouse, markets, and wharfs, often alongside fruits and vegetables. This was all part of the trans-Atlantic slave trade that brought about 15 million Africans forcibly against their will to North and South America. We learned that the West Indies slave trade was Atlantic Canada’s most financially rewarding commercial activity until the 1830s. Many Canadians were upset when such activities became illegal thanks to the British Parliament. We must remember that all the colonies that joined together to form Canada in 1967 had a history of slavery.

 

New France began in Nova Scotia in 1605 and Quebec in 1608 and with came slavery. The first known slave in Canada was a 9-year-old boy Olivier Le Jeune  in 1629. He got his first name his owner and his last name from the priest who baptized him. He remained a slave for his entire life.

 

By the end of the 1600s the majority of black people that came to Canada, came as slaves, and this continued for 2 centuries.

 

According to the museum, slavery was no more humane in Canada than it was in the United States.  Slaveholders assaulted and killed enslaved people in Canada often without legal consequences and regularly stole black children from their parents and sold them as property.  The Museum had some gruesome photos of slaves with backs covered in scars from lashings they had received.

 

Enslavers came from all walks of life and levels of society: wealthy people, government workers, military and religious organizations,  merchants, widows, housewives, and nuns and priests.

 

During both the French and British periods of administration in Canada, ownership of slaves was seen by many as a way to deal with labour shortages.  While at times indigenous people were also enslaved, colonial leaders preferred black slaves. Naturally, racist ideas were used to justify such actions. When Halifax was founded in 1749 13% of its population was enslaved. Over 2,000 black slaves arrived in Canada with the United Empire loyalists.

 

The uncomfortable fact is that the Canadian economy, like American economy, benefited enormously from slavery while their societies were poisoned by it.

 

 

 

The Expulsion of the Acadians

 

No one likes to be expelled. It is an insult. You feel unwanted. Undocumented people in the US don’t like it. The Mennonites who left Russia for Germany during the Second World War did not like it. No one likes it. It is a profound insult, even when disguised as a voluntary withdrawal.

 

The Acadians had settled the area in and around Annapolis Royal since the founding of Annapolis Royal in  the early 1600s. They were among the earliest Europeans to move to Canada. The Acadians had lived in the region of Atlantic Canada, particularly Nova Scotia, and were mainly French Catholics who maintained a neutral stance between the French and the British during their interminable wars of aggression by both sides. Particularly the British looked down upon them with suspicion.

 

Many Acadians were descended from about 50 French families that settled in the Annapolis Royal. Not all were French and they considered themselves an independent people by the time they were expelled.

 

In 1713 in the Treaty of Utrecht the French signed over to Britain the land the occupied by Acadians, without of course, consulting them or the Mi’kmaq,  whose traditional territory it was. Their views did not count.  This was typical of imperial powers. The English were worried about security and signed peace and friendship treaties with the Mi’kmaq toward that end from 1725 to 1726 and again in 1752.

 

The Acadians had established a vibrant community around the Bay of Fundy where they built dykes to tame the extremely high tides and lived in peace with their allies the Mi’kmaq.

 

Between 1755, just before the beginning of the Seven Years War between France and Britain, and 1764 after the British took over in Canada from the French, they quickly saw to it that the Acadians were expelled from Canada. 10,000 of these people were expelled in the next 10years. The expulsion of the Acadians is also referred to as the “Grand Dérangement.” And like so many expulsions it truly was deranged. This one was the forced removal of Acadians (French settlers in Nova Scotia) from their homes and land by the British authorities between 1755 and 1764 mainly as a result of their refusal to swear an oath of allegiance to the British Crown.  They really had done nothing to warrant such treatment, just like the Japanese in Canada during the Second World War had done nothing to warrant their expulsion to concentration camps in Canada.

In 1755 the British authorities led by Governor Charles Lawrence demanded, as tyrants demand clear demonstration of loyalty, as we are seeing again in the 21st century in a nominally democratic country like the United States.

In 1763 the French ceded control of Canada to the English in the Treaty of Paris that ended the Seven Years’ War. As a result, Quebec became a British colony, and the Acadians in the Maritimes became British subjects, whether they liked it or not. But starting in 1755 the British rounded up the Acadians in those territories they already controlled, confiscated their property, and deported them to various British colonies around the world where the British felt they would not pose a threat. Some were also deported to France. This is all very reminiscent of what Americans are currently doing to their undocumented people in what their current leader has bragged is the greatest deportation in American history to the cheers of his loyal Trumpsters. The desire to expel the other is a common unattractive goal.

Here is how the Canadian Encyclopedia described it:

 

“Soldiers rounding up terrified civilians, expelling them from their land, burning their homes and crops ‒ it sounds like a 20th century nightmare in one of the world’s trouble spots, but it describes a scene from Canada’s early history, the Deportation of the Acadians”.

 

This church was built in Grand Pre in 1922 to commemorate the expulsion of Acadians. We must remember even the bad parts of our history.  It is now a UNESCO world heritage site.

Just like modern deportations, the expulsion of Acadians was harsh with many of them perishing on their forced journeys as a result of disease and terrible conditions. They were allowed to take with them only what they could carry in a suitcase. In an act of savage vandalism, their properties were burnt to discourage them from returning.

Governor Lawrence ordered his soldiers not to pay the least attention “to any remonstrance or Memorial from any of the inhabitants.” When one of his Colonels, John Winslow, read the deportation order, he admitted that although it was his duty, it was “very disagreeable to my nature, make and temper.” He was like so many before and after him in claiming he was only following orders. As he said, “it is not my business to animadvert, but to obey such orders as I receive.”

Some Acadians resisted expulsion and some even launched retaliatory raids against the British troops.

Many of those deported never made it to their places of deportation on account of horrendous conditions on the ships or modes of transportation. Like the legendary Evangeline of Longfellow’s poem, many of the Acadians were forced to wander interminably looking for loved ones.

After the Seven Years War ended in 1763 some of them returned to their homelands but often found their land had been given away to others. This too is another unfortunate common occurrence among the supporters of deportations. Often authorities hand out the property of the deportees to those favored by the current regime. This was incisively shown in the film that last year was nominated for best Picture at the Academy Awards, namely “Zone of Interest.”  Among other things it depicted the eagerness of Germans to steal property from Jews sent to death camps. It showed women callously describing how they might take property such as fur coats that had belonged to Jews in their neighbourhood of the camp at Auschwitz. Humans have a nasty inclination to abandon friends when minor economic gains can be achieved.

 

The expulsion of Acadians represents a dark chapter of forced displacement and cultural loss by Canadian ancestors. I know many Conservatives, particularly in the USA, who don’t like to be reminded of such sad chapters in the history of their nation. But the stories of the resilience of the Acadians and the astonishing preservation of their culture amid the hardships are testaments to their enduring spirit. Christiane and I had benefited greatly from that culture in our attendance at a local bar in Digby a couple of days before we drove to Grand Pre.

Many of the Acadians were attracted to Louisiana by familiarity of the language and remained to there and developed the culture now known as “Cajun.”  As a result, they developed one of my favorite forms of music; Cajun or Zydeco music. Is any music better? If you want to hear some great music watch the film The Big Easy starring Dennis Quaid, John Goodman, and Ellen Barkin. The sound track to the film is stellar and gives a great taste of this music which I first heard about at a Winnipeg Folk Festival.

In 2003, Queen Elizabeth II on behalf of the British crown apologized and acknowledged the wrongs committed during the Acadian deportation. Sometimes apologies are necessary.

The expulsion was later proved to have been completely unnecessary on military grounds and was justifiably judged as unjust and inhumane like so many other expulsions around the world. Governor Lawrence’s lack of imagination played as big a part as did the greed, confusion, misunderstanding, and fear of the people and their populist leaders. Yet the Acadians established a society in the region that could never be squelched in a laudable demonstration of resilience in the face of pitiful and abject cruelty. Unfortunately, those lessons have not been well learned by people who continue to use such tactics against those they manage to relegate to the category of “the other.” Once again, we learn that history is important so that hopefully, once in awhile at least, we can avoid repeating the mistakes of the past. Our neighbours to the south are managing to avoid learning such lessons by forcing history to be re-written or ignored.  Of course, we in Canada, have often done this  as well. History is important

A long history of Kejimkujik

 

The history of Kejimkujik National Park including the deep ancient history is very interesting.

380 million years ago the continents of Africa and North America moved together closing the Atlantic Ocean in the process. This collision of continents baked and bent the layers of silt and shale into the metamorphic rock that we call shale.

Later the continents shifted again and the continents separated once more leaving some African slate as part of what we now call Nova Scotia.

 

 

The Kejimkujik region was formed by many glaciations when at different times massive continental glaciers covered much of North America. This occurred many times over the past 3 million years. The last glaciation ended about 12,000 years ago when the great ice sheet retreated.

The first people to settle here, so far as can be told, were the Mi’kmaq.

 

In the Mi’kmaq language the Kejimkujik refers to “tired muscles,” probably a reference to the great efforts it takes to canoe through the waterways of the region. Others say the word refers to “swollen waters’ or “attempting to escape.” Some Mi’kmaw knowledge holders say that the name is derived from the Mi’kmaq word Kejimkuji’jk, which means “little fairies”.

Historically in winter, the Mi’kmaq travelled up the lovely Mersey River which leads to the centre of the peninsula. Historically, the Mi’kmaq travelled up the Mersey River (inland) to the area around Kejimkujik Lake, where they lived and hunted during the fall and winter months.

At the same time caribou migrated inland at that time of year but I think they were extirpated from the region after Europeans arrived. They were historically an important source of food for the Mi’kmaq together with eels. In the park there is evidence of eel weirs that are thousands of years old.

There are also a number of petroglyph sites in the park but we did not see them on our visit. The petroglyphs are currently protected sites because of their cultural and historical value.

 

After European settlement in the region, the Mi’kmaq living that still lived here found it very hard to maintain their traditional life style. Many of them were forced off of their hunting grounds when the Europeans cleared them of tree cover. The Europeans of course were more interested in farming and logging.

After they were forced off their traditional lands many tried to take up farming themselves as well as acting as fishing guides for Europeans. Even though Mi’Kmaq people don’t live here anymore they still consider it their spiritual home.

Albert Einstein, as usual said it smart:   “Look deep into nature and then you will understand everything better.”

 

Autumn Delight

 

Very few people understood the eastern forests better, or at least could explain them more coherently, than Henry David Thoreau. This is what he said:

“If a man walks in the woods for the love of them for half each day, he is in danger of being regarded as a loafer; but if he spends his whole day as a speculator, shearing off those woods and making the earth bald before her time, he is esteemed as an industrious and enterprising citizen.”

 

 

Hermann Hesse also got it right: “Trees are sanctuaries. Whoever learns to speak to them can learn the truth.  They do not preach learning and precepts, they preach undeterred by particulars, the ancient law of life.”

 

I love reflections of the autumn leaves in lakes or streams. I can never get enough of them.

 

The autumn colours were clearly the best that we had seen yet on this trip. They were sensational. As we strolled along the Mersey River the colours reflected brilliantly in the water of the river.

The water in many places seemed brown. This was not from dirt or pollution. It is stained brown as it seeps through the surrounding bogs and gets coloured brown. The locals call it Mersey tea.

 

Tannins stain the water brown saponins are a kind of natural soap. When they fall over rapids they form stable foam.

The river contains a lot of slate which is a smooth gray metamorphic rock that forms natural dams over the river. Over time the slate has been polished smooth. The slate was formed about 500 million years ago when silt was deposited in fine layers on what was then the continental shelf of northern Africa!  Think about that. The slate moved with the continent from Africa to North America.

380 million years ago the continents of Africa and North America moved together closing the Atlantic Ocean in the process. This collision of continents baked and bent the layers of silt and shale into the metamorphic rock that we call shale.

 

Later the continents shifted again and the continents separated once more leaving some African slate as part of what we now call Nova Scotia.

Autumn in Nova Scotia is grand. Life in Nova Scotia is grand.

Kejimkujik National Park and National Historic Site.

 

This morning we said good-bye to our new friends from Quebec  and set out for Kejimkujik National Park and National Historic Site.This is the only National Park in Canada that is also a Historic Site.

 

Christiane and I had a wonderful walk through a trail near the park entrance along the Mersey River.  The colours were spectacular and the entire walk was a delight.

 

The eastern forests are glorious for many reasons. One of the reasons—a big one—is the astonishing variety of trees. You can really see this elemental fact when you look at all the incredible colors of the trees in a place like Kejimkujik.

 

The autumn colours were clearly the best that we had seen yet on this trip. They were sensational. As we strolled along the Mersey River the colours reflected brilliantly in the water of the river.

 

 

Kejimkujik is located in Southwest Nova Scotia together with an adjunct consisting of a parcel of land on the Atlantic Ocean.

 

Christiane made good friends with a woman from Maryland. Both of the women  had a wonderful chat as their overly eager amateur photographer spouses went off in search of the elusive perfect autumn images. At least they were elusive for Christiane’s spouse.

 

Some of the canoe routes here are thousands of years old. They are part of Mi’kmaw culture.

It includes petrogrly sites, habitation sites, fishing and hunting sites, travel routes and burial grounds, all of which attest to Mi’kmaq occupancy for thousands of years.

It has also been designated as a dark-sky preserve by the Royal Astronomical Society with some of the brightest night skies in southern Canada.

Ralph Waldo Emerson said it best: “The wonder is that we can see trees and not wonder more.”

The War on Smart

 

Late night comedians are smart. At least they are smart enough to gather together a diverse collection of funny people. And when they smell ignorance, they smell funny. Recently this was proved by the actions of Donald Trump. Actually, this has happened many times, but it certainly happened when Donald Trump declared war on brains. One of those actions—there are actually many—was the dismissal of basically all of the Department of Education. After all who needs education. Trump’s sons didn’t need no education!

 

As Jimmy Kimmel said, “Trump famously said he loves the poorly educated, and now he will have so many more people to love.” Supposedly that is what it means to say ignorance is bliss.

 

Kimmel also said this: “Trump signed the order [gutting the Department of Education] during an event at the White House. They invited  like ‘Hey kids, who hates school?’  And they’re like ‘Well we all do!’  And they said, ‘Well, good news, it’s over.’

 

One more comment from Kimmel:  “The idea behind this is to let the states come up with their own educational standards. For instance, from here one, in order to receive a high school diploma in Florida, all you have to do is complete the maze on the back of the kids’ menu at Fuddruckers.”

 

Jimmy Fallon said this, “Today, President Trump signed an executive order to shut down the Department of Education. It’s a historic move that years from now kids will not read about in history books.”

 

Greg Gutfeld said, “President Trump signed an order today to dismantle the Department of Education. Yep. Soon employees will be reading their pink slips at a third-grade level.”

 

Yes, in the good ole USA, famous the world over for the strength of its universities is turning to dumb. Dumb on steroids.  And this is no accident. That is what Trump and the Dumpsters want—ignorance.  They want dumb! They want it. And they’ll get it. Kimmel was right when he called it “a confederacy of dunces.”

 

Why does Trump want dumb?  I think Hannah Arendt had the answer::

 

“Totalitarianism in power invariably replaces all first-rate talents, regardless of their sympathies, with crackpots and fools whose lack of intelligence and creativity is still the best guarantee of their loyalty.”

 

Trump, like most totalitarians likes dumb!

 

Digby Lighthouse proves No one has to make Canada great again!

 

 

As faithful readers of this blog will know, I consider lighthouses a sacred trust. They are important. Vitally important. And I am not the only one.

 

Even though it was a modest light on the harbour site, in Digby there was a dispute over a lighthouse which was resolved in typical Canadian style without war. Just like the Canadian dispute with Denmark over Hans Island. Since I am named after that island, I consider it sacred too, and it was also resolved amicably between Canada and Denmark

 

 

It took more than 30 years to resolve the argument over the Digby lighthouse.  (I could not call it a “fight” in good conscience). It had a been a fixture in Digby for 70 years until it was removed by the Canadian air force in one of its worst ever dereliction of duties. At the time, the Canadian Coast Guard brought the lighthouse to Saint John New Brunswick for “storage.”  Of course, like so many things governments do, such as income tax impositions which were also supposed to be temporary, this act too seemed to be permanent. For about 30 years it was a fixture in the New Brunswick harbour.

 

But fault also lay with the people of Nova Scotia who failed to honour and protect the Lighthouse as was their heavy duty. Many people of Digby actually forgot about it, as impossible as that sounds. Eventually, the Digby council sent a delegation to the Saint John Waterfront Development Corporation and urged them to give it back to Digby, where they said it belonged.

 

And guess what happened? In true Canadian fashion they gave it back! Can you imagine Donald Trump giving something back? Light the Eiffel Tower for example? Of course not. That is not how he sees Americans becoming great again. For the same reason he wants the Panama Canal back even though the United States gave it to Panama.

 

 

The Saint John Waterfront Development Corporation however was a good Canadian neighbour! A spokesman for that corporation, Kent Macintyre said, “We have three lighthouses on the waterfront, so handing back one to help invigorate the heritage development of another Bay of Fundy community is wonderful.”  On October 19, 2012 the lighthouse came home to Digby thanks to the honest Canadians of Saint John New Brunswick.

 

Only in Canada! That’s why I love Canada!  That’s why we don’t have to make Canada great again. It is already great! As Aristotle would have said, ‘Canada is great-souled.”  And that is greatness indeed.

 

But that was not the entire story. When the lighthouse returned it was badly in need of repairs and as it turned out the National Trust for Canada opened a campaign headed “this Lighthouse matters” to stimulate historical restoration or conservation of lighthouses, so the citizens of Digby got together and the Digby pier light got first place after receiving 219,000 votes from around the world and the funds were used to fix it up again. It looked pretty snazzy on the harbour, I must say. Some people know what’s important!

Annapolis Royal, Nova Scotia

 

In 1604 the famous French explorer Samuel Champlain named the town Port-Royal. Now we call it Annapolis Royal on the Annapolis Basin.

 

The French had tried a few times to establish successful settlements until 1605 when they started one that worked at Port Royal Nova Scotia. This one was led by Pierre Dugua le Sieur de Mons and worked mainly because they were helped by the local Mi’kmaq.

 

The Mi’kmaq offered their valuable knowledge about the land and its inhabitants that proved immeasurably helpful to the new arrivals. They also became military allies. The alliance lasted for 150 years. And, of course, many of them joined the French in their religion as well. They became Christians.

 

Christiane and I visited the reconstructed Habitation on what is now a designated  historic site of Canada. It is located close to where the original one was believed to be. The reconstructed Habitation was completed in 1941 and was instrumental in providing an example of how such projects should be handled. The reconstruction was based on Champlain’s picture plan of the settlement.

 

Before Europeans arrived the people now called Mi’kmaq were called L’Nu’k which like names claimed by so many Indigenous Peoples means, “the people.” The Mi’kmaq lived here for thousands of years before the Europeans arrived. The traditional territory of the Mi’kmaq included all of Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island and part of New Brunswick including the land north of the St. John River and the Gaspe area of Quebec. In other words, it included pretty well all the land we travelled on for 3 weeks in the Maritimes. The Mi’kmaq called the southern part of Nova Scotia Kespukwitk which means “the end of the flow.”

The first two years of the French settlement were very hard and many of them died, even though they had help from the Mi’kmaq. As a result morale was understandably very low among those settlers. As a result, Champlain wisely started a social group in the winter of 1606 to 1607 called the Order of Good Cheer. What a great name! The group had regular nights of singing, feasting, and story-telling. Naturally, some beverages were also consumed. How could you have an Order of Good Cheer without that? The Mi’kmaq chiefs were often invited to sit at the head table with the “gentlemen.”

Bed & Roses B & B

Today the historic site is called Port Royal. A number of years ago we stayed for a number of days at a lovely B &B. It was elegant, but also comfortable.

It is also an artistic community. Now the community admits “Visitors are invited to delve into the rich Mi’kmaq history and heritage, witnessing its enduring impact on our vibrant culture.”

 

A Church in need of a Savior

 

After our time in Yarmouth Nova Scotia we continued on our way back to Digby, but this time we travelled along the coastal route, carefully avoiding the access controlled highway.  Meandering in other words.  As a result, we saw a good part of the Acadian French coast of Nova Scotia.  There were numerous little French towns that were settled by the Acadians. Acadian heritage is proudly on display in every small town here.  Their flags visible everywhere. Ubiquitous.

 

Yet there was one stain on their proud record. That was the dilapidation of Eglise Ste. Marie.  This is a huge French Romanesque Revival Church in the Acadian community of Church Point. It is right beside the highway. We were not expecting it and new nothing about it until we happened on it.  How could we not stop to see this?is reputed to be the largest wooden church in North America. It is an important cultural mark for the Acadian community yet it has fallen into ruin. It is no longer used as a church and is likely unsafe.  I saw some pretty big cracks in it and feared to go close let alone inside. Christiane disagrees with me but she is a Catholic. I know I did not want to go inside. Too me it looked rickety and unsafe.

In my opinion, churches, like lighthouses can be beautiful.

As I have said, I love dilapidated buildings, but when a heritage building falls into such disrepair it is sad. It is sad the community was not able to get together to save it. The Catholic church who continues to use it, but is not able to maintain it, has listed it for sale.  You can buy this church!  Why not buy it?

It has been designated as a historic place by the Province of Nova Scotia.

The church was completed in 1905 so it is pretty impressive. It was the third church to be built on the site to serve the local Catholic congregation who were mainly the descendants of the Acadian families who arrived in the area in 1769 from Massachusetts after being deported by the English. They returned to Nova Scotia on foot. Their homes had been destroyed by the barbarian English who had displace the Acadians.

 

I have been told that the high vaulted ceilings combined with the large nave and transepts give the visitor, upon entering, a sense of grandeur and awe. As I said, I was too afraid to walk inside for a closer look. It takes a man of faith to do that. But the sheer size of the church gives it a dominating appearance as the 185-foot spire can be seen from miles around. We just happened upon it and at first thought it was a church in good standing. Sadly, on closer inspection that was no longer the case.

 

About 10 years ago the Arch-Diocese gave a community group 1 year to raise the money to restore and maintain it but they were only able to raise $500,000. It was estimated that $10 million would be needed to save it.  After that money would be needed for maintenance.

The roof is leaking in several places said a local Pierre Comeau the head of a local committee that tried to raise the $10 million needed to save it. Comeau said “The church deserves to be maintained and preserved as a monument to the faith and the tenacity of our ancestors who built it.”

 

In 2023 an anonymous donor offered to pay the $10 million purchase price and pay for maintenance. When Comeau and his group heard about the offer they were “ecstatic and overjoyed.” When they heard the news it felt like “the offer came down from heaven.” Spiritual ecstasy, like political popularity, is often short-lived. Alas, heaven has failed to save the church. That offer was withdrawn by the secret donor who did not give a reason for his/her changed mind. Now it is a monument to inadequate faith!

 

In 2024 the church was deconsecrated and put up for sale. Apparently According to numbers provided by the archdiocese, 32 church buildings in Nova Scotia have been deconsecrated in the past decade, and nine of those buildings have been sold. The province said it would not buy the church.

 

One thing is clear, the church needs a savior or it is a goner. And that would be a shame.