Gaspé Peninsula

 

The  Gaspé Peninsula, or Gaspésie, in French is peninsula along the south shore of the St. Lawrence River from the Matapedia Valley in Quebec into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Chaleur Bay, on the south side of the Peninsula separates it from New Brunswick. I don’t know exactly where it starts and ends. The name Gaspé comes from the Mi’kmaq word gespe’g, meaning “end”, referring to the end of the land.

Originally, this was the land of the Mi’kmaq people.  Actually, much of the land we travelled through in eastern Canada—commonly called the Maritimes—was in their territory.  And that is important but too often forgotten by Canadians. Jacques Cartier arrived in Gaspe in 1534 and many people think—wrongly of course—that this is when Canada started. This is a very large area, bigger than Belgium for example. Approximately 140,000 people live there. About 1/10th as many as Manitoba.

Though I don’t know exactly where it began, for me it began after leaving Rimouski and the “people” leaving the St. Lawrence River, looking out for land. This marked the beginning of the Gaspésie for us. It is one of the most interesting areas of Canada in my opinion. It is an area with a great variety of simple, yet elegant homes. They are not ostentatious, but nonetheless beautiful. Simple beauty. Well-tended. These people have heeded the wise words of Bob Dylan, “Don’t go mistaking paradise for that home across the road.”  This area, though I had been there before many years ago, was one of the surprises of the trip.

Canada is full of surprises. And not all of them are bad.

It was a lovely ride beside the St. Lawrence River. Of course, sprinkled along the way were a few lighthouses.  The first one was the Cap Chat Lightouse that was completed in 1909. It is not very tall and unlike the fine sculpturing of the lighthouse at Rimouski, this one was a squat square towers built of reinforced concrete with a circular red lantern It is 133 feet (10 metres) above the sea. It has a revolving Fresnel lens built in France and at the time produced a white flash every 3 seconds that was visible for 17 miles. A new dwelling was built for the lighthouse keeper after the original one burned down in 1923.

I learned that during World War II Cap Chat was a staging area for German U-boats who hoped to intercept coal convoys from Cape Breton Island. Because of stratification in the area of fresh and salt water it was difficult for radar to detect them. It is possible to rent the house for overnight  stays. Wow! Life is good. I have slept in a few lighthouse keepers homes over the years and would have loved to stay, but we got here too early to pack it in. Sadly, we had to move on.

Art Emerges from the River

 

 

 

After leaving the Rimouski harbour, we tried to find a place to eat. This proved difficult as our GPS was flummoxed by something and kept leading us in strange circles. She tried to make us eat at a restaurant that had bit the dust a few years ago, but eventually we found a wonderful restaurant and art gallery for breakfast. The gallery showcases the sculptures of Marcel Gagnon. They are located at Sainte-Flavie, Gaspésie (Gaspe Peninsula).

 

I don’t know what Gagnon was saying with his approximately 100 life-size statues emerging from the St. Lawrence River. The works are collectively called the Le Grand Rassemblement (The Grand Gathering).  Who summoned them? For what purpose did they leave the river? Why were they in river in the first place? I guess it would have been ominous if the people had been walking into the river rather than out. Perhaps it was a movement of liberation like when our ancient ancestors left the sea to live on land. A friend of mine thinks ever since our ancients ancestors left the ocean Homo Sapiens have been doomed. He thinks it was much safer in the sea.  I’m not sure he is right about that.

In any event, the site is a little island of civilization with art on the walls, a little reading corner, great food, and spectacular view of the river and outside, art. Only in Quebec! The art is continually transformed by the river and weather.

 

Sadly, the tide was out so we did not get the best view of the sculptures, but as I keep repeating, ‘you gotta dance with the girl you brung.’

 

 

Unlucky

 

Right across the road from the lighthouse in Rimouski is the historic Maritime Museum de la Pointe-au- which houses the RMS Empress a ship that is sort of Canada’s Titanic. That vessel played a very important role in the history of Canadian shipping and navigation.

 

The museum commemorates the tragic sinking of the Empress of Irelandocean liner in the St. Lawrence River to Rimouski. It was the worst maritime disaster in Canadian history.  Of the 1,477 people on board, 1,012 died.  Actually what I read was that they were “lost.”  But I think reality is worse. The ship sank on May 29, 1914 near Rimouski.

The land has been declared a national historic site. The ship was considered a symbol of luxury at the time. It had spacious décor with rich wood panels and fireplaces. First class passengers were offered a music and writing room, a café, smoking room, and library. The ship and her sister ship were in their time the fastest ships making the trans-Atlantic run.

Shortly before she sank after a collision with the Norwegian collier SS Storstad, the Commander was told by the pilot, “I don’t think you should run into much fog for the rest of the night. Good luck commander.” Even though no passenger was given a cabin numbered 13, many on board suffered bad luck. In fact, it was the worst luck. On this day the Empress was unlucky as were most of her passengers.

Spiritual Light

 

 

Lighthouses can also have spiritual meaning.  In the Bible there are many references to light and nothing speaks about light as clearly and succinctly as a lighthouse. In verses from John 8:12, Jesus spoke as follows: “I am the light of the world. Whoever follows me will never walk in darkness but will have the light of life.”

 

It is one of the most significant passages in the Bible. It shows Jesus as the ultimate source of light and life. He provides spiritual light. He enlightens. He illuminates the way. He provides salvation from the dangers of life. Like a lighthouse Jesus can save us. That I think is the message.

 

You don’t have to believe in anything supernatural to appreciate the words and the meaning of such a passage. To some people a lighthouse can remind us of the divine spark of light in each of us. They can connect us to something greater than ourselves, particularly in the dark night of the soul.

 

The lighthouse can light the way to a spiritual path.

Lighthouses are not just Lighthouses

In the morning leaving Rimouski Quebec, we headed right out to the Pointe-Au-Père Lighthouse just north of town.

I have a confession to make—I love lighthouses. I cannot resist stopping to look at them and photograph them. Why is that?

 

Similar to what Sigmund Freud said about cigars, I say, “Lighthouse is never just a lighthouse.” Lighthouses have great symbolic value. Freud was obsessed with cigars.  When his nephew declined a cigar at 17 Freud was thunderstruck. How was that possible? He said to him, “”My boy, smoking is one of the greatest and cheapest enjoyments in life, and if you decide in advance not to smoke, I can only feel sorry for you.” He actually thought it was illogical not to smoke cigars. That is the way I feel about lighthouses. I wanted to see them all. And sometimes that was absurd. He smoked cigars almost continuously. He smoked about 20 cigars per day!

What then do cigars symbolize? Of course, many have said the cigar is an obvious phallic symbol. Of course, lighthouses stand proud and erect.  Is that what they refer to? Perhaps.

It has been said that a lighthouse represents navigation through the challenges of life. As Anne Volpe said, “They provide a sense of direction, safety, and hope. Lighthouses also symbolize the importance of staying on course, making informed decisions, and finding our way during darkness or uncertainty.” They offer guidance and assurance in tough times. In short, they help you to wade through uncertainties of life.

Lighthouses are often found in hazardous locations such as dangerous coastlines. Symbolically, they represent protection and security. Who would not want that? They offer hope that we will survive the dangers that surround us. They allude to a bright future. They are light inside the dark.

 

 

Yet the lighthouses are often found in secluded areas where they are isolated from harm. They suggest seclusion and solitude far from the maddening crowd. They provide tranquility in times of tumult and encourage reflection. They are allied with the search for truth. We need light to find the truth. And wisdom. Sometimes a lighthouse. And sometimes we just need luck.

Lighthouses must be strong for often they must endure brutal circumstances.  A lighthouse is a steadfast friend. Dependable. You can rely on the lighthouse in your life’s storms. Who would not welcome that?

After the danger of the rough sea, the lighthouse offers respite. They provide a warm welcome, a refuge, a safe haven. Lighthouses give us a chance to overcome obstacles and challenges in difficult times.

Lighthouses often are also shrouded in mystery and romance. I don’t know why? They are in remote areas which leads us to speculate about what life would be like living in a remote area, perhaps an island, in solitude for lengthy periods of time.

According to Volpe,

“Lighthouses represent the pursuit of wisdom, self-actualization, and spiritual enlightenment. They inspire individuals to strive for self-improvement, expand their intellectual horizons, and cultivate inner wisdom. They serve as reminders to seek knowledge, navigate life’s struggles with wisdom, and continually strive for personal growth and enlightenment.”

Lighthouses often symbolize eternal vigilance from other dangers. For example, they can represent political freedom, which as we all know, requires relentless never-ending vigilance and awareness. They require us to be attentive and aware and won’t tolerate indolence or laziness. In summary they require the best from us, including insight, courage, and determination to endure.

Long live lighthouses. Long freedom.

Rimouski Lighthouse

 

On our way to the east coast, we stopped in Rimouski, Quebec. It took quite a long time to find a room to stay. It turned out Rimouski was hosting a big hockey tournament. And in Quebec there is another religion that competes with art. That, of course is hockey. The town was filled with hockey fans and parents of hockey players. The hotel was jammed. There were hockey players everywhere.  It seemed like we got the last room in the town and naturally it did not come cheap.The players of course are hockey gods.

We stayed at the Hotel Rimouski. It was a large and nice hotel. The hotel restaurant was very large and completely filled with people who seemed to be having a great time. There is no doubt about it—Hockey is popular in Rimouski.

 

Pointe-Au-Père Lighthouse

In the morning in Rimouski, Quebec we headed right out to the local lighthouse on the edge of town. We saw it yesterday from a distance.  Today we would get a much better look. I admit I got a bit ridiculous about insisting on seeing the lighthouses. For one thing there are 40 lighthouses in Quebec and many of them are on islands.  No matter how much we meandered we would not see them all. And I always thought I was missing the best one.

Today in Rimouski Quebec I saw one of the most beautiful lighthouses I have ever seen. It was a magnificently sculptured lighthouse that stood out against a deep blue sky with distant fog in the background. This was the 3rd Pointe-Au-Père Lighthouse that was built in 1909 very near the edge of the city of Rimouski  in Pointe-au-Père.

It is the second tallest lighthouse in eastern Canada and consists of 8 concrete buttresses that reminded me of the great Cathedral of Paris—i.e., Notre-Dame de Paris. Often it is just called Notre Dame.  It was recently renovated after the great fire a couple of years ago. The buttresses here, unlike those in Paris, support a slender structure. Notre Dame de Rimouski perhaps.

 

The lighthouse is 108 feet (33 m) tall and its lines are pure.  It looked very modern. Sleek, jutting out into the sky like a sliver of white and the original was replaced with an electronic light in 1975. The grounds have been declared a national historic site.

Did you know that the maritime regions of Québec are home to over 40 lighthouses? A few are still operational, but most have been replaced by more modern instrumentation. Witnesses to a rich maritime tradition, these lighthouses, which were once navigational aids, now have a new purpose: to remind us of our past. Each lighthouse has its own personality, history and legends, and every one of them is worth a visit!

And I saw so few. What a dreadful pity. Even though we meandered!

 

 

Some Scenes Demand a Stop for all Meanderers.

 

 

If you pass by some scenes without stopping that is a sin.  I think this is one of them. Unfortunately, I have forgotten the name of the town. To avoid the taint of sin, we stopped to take a photograph of what at one time was a mill (I believe). There was no longer any sign of the mill but it was a lovely Quebec scene. I could not drive by without taking a photograph. That would have been a sin.

 

 

Are the Quebecois snobs?

 

I used to think Quebecois were snobby, ill-tempered and totally dismissive of English tourists. Not anymore.  Everyone I encountered in Quebec laughed at me, rightly, for my pathetic lack of French. But they did not insult me or ignore me. They were actually polite and courteous. Even gentle.

It was a bit humiliating to ask Christiane constantly for translations. But that just shows up my ignorance. In Europe everyone speaks multiple languages and make no fuss about it. My German is terrible and my French non-existent. No doubt, I am ignorant and the French tolerated this without objections or mockery.

The French in Quebec have done quite well at preserving their language in the face of the overwhelming English language domination across all of North America. It really is a remarkable achievement that should be celebrated, even though they had to take some Draconian measures to make it work.  Like language police. But I like that they were able to do it. Almost everyone speaks French here. And many speak English too. Many more than those who speak only English. They like me, are in the ignorant minority.

I like the feeling of being in a different country. I know some don’t like it. I do. If you don’t, you should not go to Quebec. Then you are the snob..Snobs are in the eye of the beholder.Literally.

Religion and Art in Quebec

 

 

I must admit this photograph was taken of a church in Quebec town the name of which I neglected to take down. But I would be willing to bet it was named after a Saint. Quebec has hundreds of towns name after saints.  I never knew there were so many saints. We  don’t have any in Steinbach unless you count Andrew Unger.

You would be forgiven if you thought Quebec is a very religious province. This is an illusion.  It once was, but it is no longer. It’s not just that French women don’t want to have a lot of children anymore. Though that is part of it.  Quebecers also want expressions of religion, particularly by government officials, to be kept private.  They want a secular state. I agree with that to some extent.

The state should not impose any religion. No religions should be official. In fact, if you like religion, you should ensure the state stays out of it. The United States is one of the most religious countries in the world, and I think that is partly because it has insisted right in the Constitutionon that no religion could be “established” there. It is called the non-establishment clause. Many people think that because no religion was allowed to be established by the state each religion had to compete for adherence. Hence those religons have remained vibrant.  In states where there is an official religion, often it does not have to compete and hence the approved religion quickly loses its luster. Freedom of religion leads to robust religions. Established religions lead to stuffy religions. Freedom of religion includes freedom from religion and that is for the best, even for religions! Freedom from religion is important for others besides atheists.

In Quebec they try had—some would say too hard—to maintain a secular state. Just like France, eventually people rebelled against the dominance of the Catholic church and this spelled the doom of the church.

In Quebec I often get the feeling that art has replaced religion.  They are religious about art. They take art very seriously. Religion not so much.  Artists are everywhere and usually well respected. Priests and nuns are a dying breed mainly of old people who are literally dying out.

Yet Quebec also have magnificent churches. I took many photographs of them on our trip across Canada, and I usually tried to write down the name of the church. This time I failed to do that.

 

Notre-Dame-des-Neiges

One church I did take down the name was the church called Catholic Church Notre-Dame-des-Neiges in the city of Trois-Pistoles, Quebec on the south shore of the St. Lawrence River.  It was built from 1882-1887 and the architect was David Ouellet. The town is said to have been named for a silver goblet worth three pistoles, an old French coin, that was lost in the river in the 17th century. The coin is long gone. The church remains.

MAGA Canadian style

 

While in the Ottawa area, we learned about bullying on Parliament Hill encouraged by the current leader of the opposition, and no doubt, soon, the Prime Minster of Canada,Pierre Polievre . Bullies are popular in modern society, as shown clearly by our American neighbours. They are content to have one as a president.

I always thought Canada was a little better than that. Now I don’t believe that anymore. Pierre Poilievre aggressively insulted Jagmeet Singh the leader of the NDP who have entered into an agreement to support the Liberals as long as they would bring about a public dental plan for Canadians with a dental health plan.  Poilievre said Singh was a phony and fraud for not supporting the Conservative non-confidence vote which would have ushered in an election if it had passed. The mob on the hill was quick to join in the fray to harass Singh with foul language. These foul-mouthed bullies are MAGA Canadian style.

We live in the age of bullies. Even in Canada.