Category Archives: Travel

Mi’kmaq Religion and Spirituality

 

 

Mi’kmaq spirituality, like so much of various First Nations’ spirituality,  is deeply  influenced by and closely connected to the natural world. In fact, that connection to the natural world is the fundamental basis of their spirituality. The Mi’kmaq believe that living a good, balanced life means respecting and protecting the environment and living in harmony with the people and creatures that live on the earth.

 

Mi’kmaq culture and traditional religion is based on legendary figures like Glooscap who is said to have created the Annapolis Valley of Nova Scotia where we travelled by sleeping on the land and using the island of what we now call Prince Edward Island as a pillow. The Great Spirit is the creator of the world and all its creatures and they never lost that spirituality when Eastern Canada, as we now call it was not lost when Catholic priests and settlers arrived and often did their level best to destroy everything in their spirituality. Of course, the ideas of Creator and God are very similar.  Christians though often resist the similarities. They want to be different, because they expect to be superior. Sometimes the new adherents to the new religion managed to nearly wipe out the ancient spirituality of the so-called new world. Often it kept bubbling up again, sometimes in hybridized ways.

 

The spirituality of the Mi’kmaq people is often communicated by stories. Not really unlike the Christian stories told in the Bible. One of the Mi’kmaq origin stories told about how the world was created in 7 stage including the sky, the sun, Mother Earth and humans. I’m not sure who or what fell into the remaining stages. There are many other origin stories that describe how things came to be and how to live a good life.

As Olive Patricia Dickason and William Newbigging, explained in their book A Concise History of Canada First Nation, among the Mi’kmaq, a chief could attract followers, but the people were not subordinated to their leader’s will, except perhaps in time of war or emergencies. Even in warfare however, among many groups each individual was essentially his or her own leader. Perhaps most important of all, chiefs were expected to set an example for their people, in particular by being generous. Instead of gaining wealth through their positions, they could end up the poorest of the group because of the continual demands made upon their resources. This also happened among First Nations on the west coast as well, particularly during a Potlach.

Clearly a leader like Donald Trump would have had no interest in being a leader under such circumstances. He would not have been viewed as leadership material. I keep asking this question: who is civilized again?  Tell me again why I should think Europeans were less savage, more civilized, or more superior! It makes no sense to me.

Spiritual Colonialism

 

As we were driving through eastern Canada on this trip, I kept thinking about the original human inhabitants of this wonderful country. The Indigenous people of what we now call Eastern Canada. I kept thinking about a television series I saw on CBC Gem, called Telling Our Story. 

For over 500 years the lives of the people who occupied Eastern Canada, particularly in what we now call Quebec, were disrupted, but they survived. As the narrator of The CBC series Telling Our Story said, “History with a capital “H” was told from a single point of view, but those days are over.” Thank goodness for that. The European/Canadian point of view has been dominant too long. It’s time for a fresh look.

I know some of my friends are tired of hearing indigenous stories. They’ve heard enough they say. But those stories from an indigenous perspective are only very recently been available to us. The story of white settlers have been around for hundreds of years while the indigenous stories were not listened to. I think it is time for a change and we can hear these stories for a few years more.

Spiritual colonialism of Indigenous people was as disruptive as the political kind. Until deep into the 20th century and even beyond, Canada has tried to impose its religion on the Indigenous People of North America.  The indigenous people of Eastern Canada want to speak out and tell their story. This time, we really should listen to it. We could learn something.

As one of the Indigenous artists said on the show, “People don’t even know us.”  That is true. What a pity.

So, I am trying to tell their story to my friends. I am not appropriating their story. But as Niigaan Sinclair once told me what I could do to assist reconciliation, was to talk to my friends. So that is what I do. Many of them, no doubt, are sick of hearing me. But as Sinclair said, “they won’t listen to me, but maybe a few will listen to you.” Probably not very many but I think he has a point.

As one of the young Indigenous girls on the series said, “spirituality for me is a sense of connection to the land which makes me feel whole.”  I think I could stop right there. She summed it up. And amazingly, these words echoed ancient words of a culture from the other side of the world, India. The word “religion” is derived from an ancient Indo-European word religio, which means connection or linkage.  And that is what she was saying. It is a powerful message. It doesn’t need any supernatural beings either. Though it does not deny the possibility of the supernatural. Religion is about connection. The connection of people to each other and to the land.

Another man on the show, much older, said, “spirituality is totally different from religion.” I think he meant religion of the western colonial kind. There is another way and we can learn from it. This is not a call for anyone to abandon their own spirituality or religion. It is merely a call to open eyes.

As Alexandre Bacon, an Innu from Mashteuiatsh, said,

 “If you read the Book of Genesis it says that God created man to rule over everything that flies, that crawls, that swims. Man stands above all other animals. He is meant to dominate nature, to control it. Whereas from an Indigenous point of standpoint, we are an integral part of nature. There is no hierarchy. The bear is our brother, the moose is our brother. And when an animal  gives its life it deserves our gratitude.”

 

 

No part of the land rules any other part.  Humans are not put on this earth to rule it. They are put on earth to be a part of it. That is the indigenous perspective.  Not the indigenous perspective. One of perspectives.

A Weird Day

 

 

Today was weird. Really weird.  We were heading on from our stay in Prince Edward Island. As we drove across Confederation Bridge on the way back to New Brunswick, just across the bridge I noticed a lighthouse in the distance. A lovely bridge and a lighthouse, those are 2 things I could not resist. Christiane  was not so keen, so she stayed in the car. Imagine that!  She left me to go on a frolic of my own.

 

As soon as I got through the entrance building to the Jourimain Nature Centre in New Brunswick right beside Confederation Bridge,  I noticed the beautiful view of the bridge. We had seen the bridge before, but this view of it was special. I quickly phoned her in the hopes of rousting her from her doldrum. I told her I would proceed because it was about a 15-minute walk to the lighthouse. I would meet her on the way back I said.

 

After that, I continued up a wide trail through the woods to the lighthouse where, of course I took a number of photographs.

The Cape Jourimain Lighthouse is a tapered, octagonal wood-frame tower that was built in 1869 and it measures 15.5 metres (51 feet) and is located at the narrowest section of the Northumberland Strait. That’s why the bridge was built there. The lighthouse sits within the Cape Jourimain Nature Centre on the New Brunswick side of the Northumberland Strait.

Shortly after Confederation, the new Canadian government decided, wisely no doubt, that it should build a line of lighthouses and light stations along the coasts of New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island to assist those mariners to navigate the coasts. Shipwrecks had been rising in the area, which was not good for shipping in the area. As a result, they built a lighthouse at Cape Jourimain. One was built here because the surrounding water are shallow and contain rocky shoals.

None of this was weird. Weird came when I returned to the viewpoint for the bridge.  I went off the trail to see if I could find Chris.  As I was looking for her, she spotting me chatting with 2 women who were most enamoured of me.  Hardly surprising.  Actually, they liked my cap made by my daughter-in-law.  She always gives me chick magnets. After a couple of minutes of chatting we returned to the main path to go back to the car parked in the parking lot, when we heard the cry: “Auntie Chris! Auntie Chris!” It turned out that Chris’ niece Margot, who lives in Gatineau Quebec, across the river from Ottawa, was also walking through the small park and recognized her. She was walking with her parents, Chris’s sister Monique and her partner Norm.  Needless to say, we were all surprised to meet each other thousands of miles from our homes. It was truly a weird coincidence. So we stopped there and had a nice short visit far from our homes.

Confederation Bridge

 

 

When Prince Edward Island joined the Dominion of Canada in 1873, they secured promises in that agreement which required the Canadian government to provide passenger service between the island and New Brunswick year-round. At first, they used a steamship that was unable to break the winter the ice. That did not really comply with the contract Canada had signed with the new province.

 

During much of the 19th century winter crossings were made by ice boats. These are boats that look like dorys but have runners on the bottom.  The boats carried from 6-10 people but often the ice was too thick and the men passengers had to get out of the boat to tow the boat across the ice with straps. Can you imagine this?

 

On the other hand, in some places the ice was not thick enough to hold up the boat and the people, and then one of the men had to walk in front of the boat and grab hold of the bow just in case the ice broke through and he fell into the icy waters.

 

Some men would stay in the boat and use grappling hooks to pull the boat. Meanwhile, the other men would remain in the boat and use grappling hooks to pull the boat along. This process could take about 4 hours in the chilly winter. They even used hot bricks to keep the passengers warm for the 4 hours it might take.

 

These ice boats were used until 1915 when they started using ferries that could break the ice. Over the years the federal government had to pay a lot of money to subsidize the ferries, paying as much as $44 million in the 1990s. More and more it seemed to the federal government that they would be better off helping to finance a bridge. And that is what they did.

 

The Confederation Bridge carries the Trans-Canada Highway across the Northumberland Strait connecting Prince Edward Island to New Brunswick. It is 12.9 km (8 miles) long the longest bridge in Canada and the longest bridge in the world over ice-covered water.  It took nearly 4 years to construct. The bridge is curved and most of it is 40 metres (131 ft.) above the water. The highway is 2 lanes.

 

The engineering of the Confederation Bridge was complicated by the fact that the water there freezes in winter.  As well, in summer ice bergs could ram into the bridge at up to 4 knots causing severe damage. The ice bergs could come from either direction Therefore, measures had to be taken to protect the piers that held up the bridge.

 

Each component of the bridge was constructed in a specially designed fabrication facility. Once the component was built, a specialized trawler had to be used to move it from that facility to a pier.  Then once it was placed on the pier the section was lifted and placed in position by a Dutch-built heavy lift catamaran. This vessel was huge. In fact, at the time it was probably the highest human made structure on P.E.I. at 100 m. (328 ft.). It could lift 3,000 tons.

 

To deflect icebergs from the bridge, steel-reinforced concrete deflection “cones” were built and strategically placed around each of the supports. Of course, they had to consider that most an ice berg was below the water surface.

 

The bridge was paid for by private developers and cost about $1.3 billion and the Canadian government agreed to pay them $44 million per year for 33 years, which was the same amount they had been paying to subsidize the ferries.  That seems like a pretty good deal for Canada, but no one knows how much profit the developers made.  They were private companies and did not have to tell. The developers collect the tolls until the contract expires, but have had large maintenance expenses. I remember that when we first crossed the bridge many years ago, not long after the bridge had been built, we noticed that it was already necessary to reapply asphalt which had difficulty sticking to the bridge on account of all of the salt water and ice on the bridge.

 

To me the most important part was the beauty of the bridge. Almost as beautiful as lighthouses!

Mundane Matters

 

After lunch it was still raining so we returned to our hotel room. We spent the day on mundane matters. Once in a while that is good. Just don’t make a habit of it. These matters included reading, blogging, some history by Barbara Huck on the fur trade, the Winnipeg Free Press and New York Times on line. And above all laundry. Even on vacation laundry needs to be done. A dreary task that needs to be done.

In our hotel we had a TV with 5,818 channels. Unbelievable. Yet we could not get our TV with 5,818 channels to work. We called for the Hotel Teckie. He fared no better than us Luddites. The television is so complicated no one can understand it. We are OK with that. We have watched hardly any TV in 2 weeks on the road. Why start now? We are travelling for 6 weeks and can’t take excitement every day.

Sometimes mundane is good.

Starlite Diner Summerside P.E.I.

For lunch we dined at the Starlite Diner in Summerside P.E.I.  This is an old-fashioned traditional diner. A classic diner in other words. The table tops were red and white. There was a juke box. That excited me a lot, until I realized it was for display only. Fake in other words. The songs we heard in the diner were classics but they did not come from the juke box. We did not choose them. An algorithm chose them. Yet it was pleasant to listen to the Beachboys. The music was adequate compensation for the loss of authenticity.

The glasses for water or pop were large and RED!  There was a Texaco Fire Chief sign. Americana paraphernalia. Various coke paraphernalia.  Milk shakes were delicious in metal containers. I enjoyed Chilli and a vanilla shake. Chris had a jumbo hot dog and fries. This was diner food. The best food. Well maybe not the best, but pretty darn good.

The glasses for water or pop were large and RED!  There was a Texaco Fire Chief sign. Americana paraphernalia. Various coke paraphernalia.  Milk shakes were delicious in metal containers. I enjoyed Chilli and a vanilla shake. Chris had a jumbo hot dog and fries. This was diner food. The best food. Well maybe not the best, but pretty darn good.

I “borrowed” these photos from their website, thinking they would not mind since I was being highly complementary.

Does God Make Mistakes?

 

 

One day in Prince Edward Island rain was forecast for the entire day. So we took a break and did nothing. As well, we felt we needed a break from driving and seeing things. So we stayed put. We do that from time to time on trips. We don’t have the energy to keep going every day.

 

We did hear about people in New Brunswick talking about their new laws targeting trans people. That really seems despicable to me. I think in a few years people will realize how nasty that really was. Some of the evangelicals justify their position on the basis that “God does not make mistakes?”

 

What would they say about our granddaughter who was born with her intestines outside her body.  Thanks to modern science, not God, the doctors knew in advance because of an ultra sound test and were prepared to deal with it. In the good old days, such a “mistake” would have resulted in her death.  We called it a miracle birth. Which it was. But it was a miracle of modern science and God should not get the credit. The scientists who invented the techniques to make for such tests saved her life. Did God not allow her to be born like that?

 

As a result of the surgery on the first day of her life, her intestines were immediately put back where they “belonged” and she lived. Fantastic. But I think God, if there is a God, made a mistake. And doctors “corrected” that mistake.

 

What about children who are born with cleft palate or a cleft lip?  It results in a horrible disfiguration that in many parts of the world permits humans to inflict untold misery on the children with the defect. I recognize that humans are the real problem here, but God, again if there is a God, gets the credit for the condition of that child?  Or can we blame the parent for that?

 

How about intersex children? These are children who are born with reproductive or sexual anatomy that doesn’t fit into an exclusively male or female (binary) sex classification. In some cases no one can tell if the child is a boy or a girl. It could be either.  Is that not a mistake? Why does God allow that? How can you impose a gender on such a child. Intersex traits might be apparent when a person’s born, but they might not appear until later (during puberty or even adulthood). In the US now, according to their new president, the country will only recognize 2 genders. What will they do with intersex children? Guess? Flip a coin?

Unfortunately, for Republicans and Canadian conservatives, not everyone’s sexual characteristics fit neatly into 1 of the 2 traditional categories. An estimated 1.7 of children born each year have variations of sexual characteristics. These variations are diverse. Some children have genitalia outside the norms for boys or girls. Some have feminized bodies but also have XY (male) chromosomes. Some have masculine bodies and XX (female) chromosomes.

Many of these children undergo surgery to “normalize” them because that is what their parents want. They want “normal” children, but that is not what God gave them. I actually don’t think this is a mistake at all. These children are just different. But in much of modern society, different is bad. Different means a mistake was made. And different means some children suffer needlessly.

I say, let it be. Whisper words of wisdoms, let it be. Some people are different. Thank God.

Hans Does Good in Just Another Farm

 

We experienced a very exciting moment near the city of Summerside P.E.I. where were staying.  This was when I sailed through a radar notice of my driving. I got an electronic clapping giving thanks for my driving under the 50 km. speed limit. I done good!

This wonderful incident occurred  near a town called “Just Another Farm.” Spoken like a typical modest Canadian! It consisted of 5 farm houses and no businesses. In Canada that warrants being called a town!